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Thursday, July 2, 2015

In which she endeavors to make a Fit and Flare Dress for a Curvy Body.... B6053

Hello my imaginary friends!
I have been hard at the math trying to make B6053 fit my curves!

It's a wonderful challenge - and no tears (the eye kind) yet.
OH! I want to thank Angela Kijauskas for pointing out that there was an error in the pattern for the skirt and saving me time!  (It ISN"T to be cut on the fold)

Muslin #1 was a straight 18D - hoping against ration that it would simply be perfect for me. I altered the pattern to make the skirt longer with following adjustments:
All Skirt Panels - Extend the cutting line to lengthen by 3"
Hem Panels - Increase each piece to accommodate the bigger circle
Used the D Cup Pieces

So - Muslin #2 is traced with the following adjustments:
Front Shoulder Piece - Redraw the neckline curve to accommodate the adjustment to the front bodice
Back Shoulder Piece - NO CHANGE (!!!)  [I doubt this is correct - Muslin #2 will find this]
Front Bodice - Take a dart at the neckline - at the shoulder piece seamline,
Side Bodice Front  - take a pinch-dart in the pattern to reduce the arm scythe (results in raising the opening by 7/8" at the underarm)
Back Bodice - Take a dart at the neckline - at the shoulder piece seamline, 3/8" Swayback Adjustment
Side Bodice Back - take a pinch-dart in the pattern to reduce the arm scythe
Midriff Front - Complete Re-Draft to allow for prominent tummy, increase of 1.75" on each side (!!!)  I used a Sandra Betzina method (slash and spread several times to "spread" the "spread over several adjustments).  This is essentially a curved waistband now....  [it's an experiment - maybe this will become my planned cummerbund belt]
Midriff Back - NO CHANGE (!!!)
Front Center Panel of Skirt - Slash and Spread the piece to increase the waistline by 1.75"

Pictures of this Muslin to follow - Muslin #1 wasn't decent (it was more a peplum than a dress - and I had to slash like crazy - I looked like an 80's Horror Movie-star Victim)

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